Polonnaruwa

A visit to an era back in time. Sri Lanka is best known for its gorgeous beaches, the hill country and Ceylon tea. but did you happen to know about its rich history? Or have you heard of the ‘Cultural triangle’ which covers the area of Sigiriya, and the two ancient cities of Anuradhapura and Polonnaruwa?

As one of the ancient cities featured in the ‘Cultural triangle’ of Sri Lanka, Polonnaruwa is a top travel destination for individuals interested in history, archaeology and gorgeous scenery. With plenty of opportunities to explore ruins from ancient kingdoms, enjoy the lush nature, and learn about Sri Lanka’s history, it is not surprising that in 1988, UNESCO declared Polonnaruwa as a World Heritage site.

History of Polonnaruwa

The history of Polonnaruwa is interesting. Polonnaruwa is known as the second ancient capital of Sri Lanka, and served as the royal capital of the island for 53 years for the Chola and then from 1055 to 1212 for the Sinhalese kingdoms. It all began in the late 10th century when the South Indian Chola dynasty invaded Sri Lanka.

The Cholas invaded Anuradhapura, which was the capital at the time, before choosing the city of Polonnaruwa as the replacement. The reason for this change was because strategically, it was the best option which offered protection from potential attacks from the Ruhunu Sinhalese kingdom located in the south-east of the island.

The Chola dynasty ruled over Jananathapuram (which was their new name for Polonnaruwa) for 53 years until it was overtaken in 1070 by the Sinhalese kingdom. The new ruler, King Vijayabahu I was credited for achieving new levels of glory for the city. The second king, King Parakramabahu I, who ruled from 1153 to 1186 ordered the construction of several large buildings, beautiful parks, and a huge tank of water, which resembles an ocean, which is a must see if you visit Polonnaruwa.

The third ruler, King Nisanka Malla, who was in charge of the monarchy from 1187 to 1196, attempted to match his predecessors’ great achievements, but ultimately ended up bankrupting the kingdom. And so, in the early 13th century the glory of Polonnaruwa began to gradually fade away. By then it was abandoned, and the capital had been moved to the western side of Sri Lanka where Colombo is located today.

5 places to visit in Polonnaruwa

There are plenty of well known ruins, temples and statues located in Polonnaruwa with great historical value. Since the majority of the sites are located within a short distance of each other, it is recommended to either rent a bicycle or a Tuk tuk also known as the three-wheel taxi to get around in order to cover all the sites while enjoying the open air and the green beautiful scenery which adds to the picturesque city.

Bicycles are available for rent usually by the side of the road or at a guest house. The best part about this is that the fee won’t put a dent on your wallet while you explore at your own pace.

Parakrama Samudraya

The stunning Parakrama Samudra (which translates to the ocean of King Parakrama) is a shallow reservoir which consist of five smaller dams which are connected by slender channels in Polonnaruwa. The size of the reservoir is however wide enough that to the naked eye, it could easily be mistaken for an ocean, hence the name of it. According to legend, this wewa (reservoir) was built with the motivation that every single rain drop which lands on the island should not be returned to the ocean without having filled a function.

Polonnaruwa Gal Viharaya

Gal Vihara is a series of four Buddha statues that have been carved out of granite rock and attracts visitors both from Sri Lanka and abroad. These statues are considered some of the best examples of ancient Sinhalese carving work so you do not want to miss out on a visit to have a look at them. Buddha is usually presented in the four images which present different stages of his life. These are the sitting Buddha, standing Buddha, walking Buddha and reclining Buddha.

Shiva kovil

The Chola occupation of the country during the period 1017-1070 CE saw the establishment of a large amount of shrines dedicated to Hindu deities. Polonnaruwa having been the capital city for several decades, meant that most of these shrines were founded within Polonnaruwa itself.

Shiva Kovil (no. 1) is the first kovil (Hindu temple) you will come across after entering Polonnaruwa. This is one of the more well preserved kovils and is located at the south of Dalada Maluwa. The walls of this particular kovil are made out of closely fitted blocks of a stone which is not found anywhere near Polonnaruwa, suggesting that the stones were brought over from India.

The Royal bath of King Nissanka Malla

The Palace of the third ruler, King Nissanka Malla, is situated in the Royal Palace Pathway of Polonnaruwa. One of the main attractions of the royal palace, is the bathing pool which you will find at the south of the palace. The water is supplied to the bath in several steps; It runs from the brick pond, where the water co es straight from the Parakrama Samudraya reservoir through a sluice gate which is made from massive brick stone. Along with the pool, there is a changing area, which makes one realise that they didn’t forget any details when they planned this construction.

Food

Due to a large quantity of the population in Polonnaruwa being employed in the agriculture sector, you will see stalls lined up on the side of the roads offering seasonal fruit and vegetables, which makes for some delicious refreshments.

The majority of the restaurants in the area offer mainly traditional Sri Lankan meals prepared with fresh ingredients such as seafood and vegetables, which is a great opportunity for you to try out some tasty new dishes and have an unforgettable meal during your stay.

If you prefer a Western oriented cuisine, hotels catering especially to tourists, will offer A la carte menus and also take in to regard any potential dietary restrictions such as gluten-free or vegan.

Please note that there are no proper eateries in the heritage sites (Only snack bars) so if you are expecting a proper meal, you will have to exit the ruins, and go to the main town itself for restaurants.

Transport options in Polonnaruwa

You can travel to Polonnaruwa by car, bus or train, and no matter which option you select, your journey will definitely be on a scenic route.

Renting a vehicle to drive yourself, or with a chauffeur, is the favoured option since you will be able to decide when and where you would eventually like to stop for a break. You might even want to take a moment to have a photo op, as the side view of the road towards the ancient city has been known to display some interesting sights. Some of them being wild elephants and monkeys, scenic lotus filled lakes and ancient Hindu temples.

It is worth noting that Polonnaruwa is located 2 hours away from Sigiriya, around 4 hours from Kandy and 5 hours from Colombo. For a budget friendly option, travelling by bus will allow you to observe the stunning roadside scenery. But make sure to travel in an intercity bus which offers comfortable seats along with air conditioning.

If you’re heading to Polonnaruwa from Sigiriya, buses run regularly to the ancient from the main town of Dambulla. And you will also find buses from Kandy and Colombo. The other budget option when it comes to travelling to Polonnaruwa is by train. Travelling from Colombo or Kandy to Polonnaruwa via train is easy because of the efficient rail connectivity.

Don’t miss buying water bottles, fruit and local snacks from various vendors who show up with their baskets before the departure.

Best time to visit

For the most part of the year, Polonnaruwa possess a tropical climate with high humidity levels. However, November to March is the preferred time to visit and tour Polonnaruwa. The weather is still warm, but the temperature starts to decrease around the end of the year.

Weather in Polonnaruwa

June to August is quite dry and remains sunny with barely any rainfall. While the time period from September to November is considered “off season” . January, July and August see the most visitors. Winter from December to February presents a pleasant climate.

Make sure that you choose clothing which will help you keep cool and be comfortable but remember to bring a form of cover up if you plan to visit any of the religious sites which require you to cover your shoulders and legs.

You will not regret entering the ancient kingdoms of Sri Lanka.